nunderville

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6-27-2016

Felt a bit weak during the warmup. Fell off a crimpy 5.11 when I messed up my feet and couldn't compensate by holding a thin crimp lockoff. Went back up the climb immediately and it was still tough. Took a 15/20 min rest afterwards and felt OK.

Hangboarding

Medium Pinch

  • Set 1 @ -35lb
    Hang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7s
       𐄂 𐄂 𐄂 
  • Set 2 @ -30lb
    Hang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7s
         
  • set notes: I have to be careful with my right thumb as I seem to tend to grind it into the underside and sometimes the tingle lasts for many hours afterwards. Did better on the 2nd set by adjusting how the thumb touched the board.

Shallow outside IM

  • Set 1 @ -20lb
    Hang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7s
          
  • Set 2 @ -15lb
    Hang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7s
         
  • set notes: Tough on skin but made it thru.

Narrow edge

  • Set 1 @ -40lb
    Hang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7s
       𐄂 𐄂 𐄂 𐄂
  • Set 2 @ -35lb
    Hang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7s
       𐄂 𐄂 𐄂
  • set notes: Really hurts skin

Wide Pinch

  • Set 1 @ -30lb
    Hang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7s
          
  • Set 2 @ -25lb
    Hang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7s
        𐄂 𐄂
  • set notes: Hold felt slimy on 2nd set, but I was tired too

IMR

  • Set 1 @ 15lb
    Hang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7s
          
  • Set 2 @ 20lb
    Hang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7s
       𐄂 𐄂 𐄂
  • set notes: Hard not to over-arch lower back as I start to get tired.

Med edge at 2nd index finger position

  • Set 1 @ -40lb
    Hang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7s
         𐄂 
  • Set 2 @ -35lb
    Hang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7sRest 3sHang 7s
       𐄂 𐄂 𐄂
  • set notes: Felt OK at start, but then fatigue took over.